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Story of the land - the people
There is evidence that people have lived on this land for thousands of years (for more info on what is known about some of the prehistoric people who lived in our area, click on the Early People drop down button under Story of the Land in the menu)  

When the first Europeans began arriving in the Green River area of Kentucky, the original 400-acre land grant that included our farm was awarded to Robert Good in 1809. The farm has passed through several hands since then. (We know most about the people in our family, of course, but
if you want to learn about those who followed Robert Good on this land before our family click on the Early People drop down button under Story of the Land in the menu and scroll past the Green River Archaic Culture information.)
  
Elihue Spinks came to live with the Leander Cowles family when he was a young boy. The 1900 census shows he was living with them that year and he was eight years old.  Lee Cowles (middle photo, seated at far right) was a veteran of the Civil War and fought for the Union (Corporal, 11th KY Infantry, Company E).  


 

early house on DSF with Leander Cowles and wife Alice Neal Lewis Cowles (seated) and family (Penns Chapel)
old house at PC farm_edited.jpg

Story of the land - our family

Elihue grew up with the Cowles family on 110 acres of the original land grant. Elihue and Ernie Cordelia Wilson married in 1915 and bought the farm in 1920 from Lee Cowles's heirs. Elihue and Ernie farmed it until Elihue's death in 1963. Their children Lloyd, Cleo and Virginia, grandchildren, great grandchildren and now a great, great  grandchild are all part of the story of the land.  Here are a few moments of those stories of family and friends through the years.

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Elihu Spinks, Lloyd Spinks, Ernie Cordelia Wilson Spinks (l to r)
Elihue Spinks, Cleo Spinks,Ernie Cordelia Wilson Spinks, Lloyd Spinks on the farm at Penns Chapel (left to right)
Cleo Spinks, Elihue Spinks, Virginia Spinks, Lloyd Spinks, Ernie Cordelia Wilson Spinks behind the house that still stands on the farm in Penns Chapel

Story of the land - agriculture

 

Elihue and Ernie Cordelia made a living for their family the way most rural families in Kentucky did in the years  between 1920 and 1960s - diverse crops including: corn, hay, tobacco, apples, peaches, grapes and pears. Milk and beef cows, pigs, chickens, guineas and honeybees provided food for the family. Mules worked the fields. There was a large garden and orchard. Strawberries were one of their main cash crops for many years.

Ernie Cordelia Wilson Spinks with her chickens on farm at Penns Chapel
Strawberry pickers behind farmhouse at Penns Chapel. Ernie, Virginia and Cleo standing
Strawberry pickers - Lucille Lucas Spinks, Cleo Spinks, Virginia Spinks, Ernie Cordelia Wilson Spinks (left to right)
Cleo Spinks on wagon pulled by mules
barn on farm at Penns Chapel (left to right unknown, Virgina Spinks and Cleo Spinks)
barn on farm at Penns Chapel
barn on farm at Penns Chapel and old rake

More recently horses and native warm season grasses have become part of the agricultural story of the farm. An ancient practice in our region, prescribed burns discourage invasive weeds so that native grasses provide nutritious, climate resilient forage for horses and cattle as well as habitat for wildlife. 

native grass meadow on farm at Penns Chapel (big bluestem and Indiangrass)
prescribed burn of native grass meadow
prescribed burn of native warm season grass meadow
prescribed burn of native warm season grass on farm at Penns Chapel
native warm season grass meadow on farm at Penns Chapel
after a prescibed burn of native grasses on farm at Penns Chapel
native warm season grass meadow on farm at Penns Chapel
cutting native warm season grass for hay on farm at Penns Chapel
load of square bales from native warn season grass meadow at Penns Chapel farm
native warm season grass meadow in winter on farm at Penns Chapel
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Story of the Land - geology

 

Dripping Springs Farm lies on the Dripping Springs Escarpment which is within the Mississippian Plateau or Pennyroyal Region. This region consists largely of a limestone plain characterized by tens of thousands of sink holes, sinking streams, streamless valleys, springs, and caverns. The term "karst" is used to define this type of terrain.

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The Karst terrain of the Mississippian Plateau occurs because the bedrock in the eastern and southern parts of the region is dominated by thick deposits of Mississippian-age limestones. These limestones are soluble (i.e., will dissolve) under the right conditions, which means they can easily be eroded by waters moving through the ground. These groundwaters can form miles of passages beneath the surface, from tiny paths only inches wide, to large caverns and rooms more than 100 feet wide. The Mammoth Cave-Flint Ridge cave system is the longest cave in the world (by far), and is formed in Mississippian-age limestones in the Mississippian Plateau Region.

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The Dripping Springs Escarpment occurs in the western part of the Mississippian Plateau Region. It is a line of continuous hills formed by isolated Pennsylvanian- and Mississippian-age sandstones capping more erodible Mississippian-age shales and limestones. These hills have also been referred to as "knobs," and were formed from similar processes, but are not "The Knobs" of central Kentucky.

 

The Dripping Springs Escarpment rises 150 to 250 feet above the bordering Pennyroyal. The margin is deeply indented by deep cliff-bordered valleys, which, however, are marked by large sinks and dismembered drainage. The sinks, here, in contrast to those of the Pennyroyal are in the valley floors rather than the upland, and in them minor drainage lines terminate. It is in this rugged border belt in the vicinity of the Green River that the great cave region of Kentucky is developed.

- Source: University of Kentucky, Kentucky Geological Survey

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For a delightful description of Kentucky's amazing geology (including the megafauna who ate paw paws and coffee tree seeds!) see this blog by Reggie Van Stockum https://vanstockum.blog/2019/11/03/the-caves-cane-and-coal-of-kentucky/

and his mini-podcast: https://vanstockum.blog/2019/11/11/the-caves-cane-and-coal-of-kentucky-mini-podcast/

 

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rock shelter in the holler on Penns Chapel farm

this section under construction

The Story of the land - history of the region and the Penn's Chapel community

The Mississippian Plateau Region was virtually unsettled in 1780 but developed rapidly after 1820. Ease of access from the Blue Grass and Nashville along with favorable topography in the Pennyroyal, accessibility to water, and an abundance of timber and grass led to its rapid growth. (Source: University of Kentucky, Kentucky Geological Survey)

Land grants

In 1763, King George III of England declared veterans of the French and Indian War would be paid with land rather than money. Bounty Land Warrants allowed surveys of unappropriated land; the amount of acreage depended on the soldier’s rank and time of service.
 

The Virginia Land Law of 1779 adapted the same method of paying veterans of the Revolutionary War. The Land Law created a military district south of Green River in western Kentucky for Virginia veterans.

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Because an ancestor received a military warrant for service in the Revolutionary War does not mean he took title to the land. Warrants and surveys were assignable—meaning they could be sold in whole or part. Veterans who preferred cash to moving to a military district could sell their warrant, keep the money, and stay home.

Source: (Kentucky Genealogical Society)

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Green River Country 

Many of the "Green River Country" settlers were Revolutionary War veterans from Virginia, North Carolina and Pennsylvania.

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Soon after Kentucky's first settlement at Harrodsburg in 1775, a great migration of pioneers began moving west toward the Green River Valley. Some came down the Ohio River by flatboat and others chose the overland route through the Cumberland Gap. By 1810 all but nine of the 28 counties drained by the Green River were chartered. Bowling Green had a population of 154.

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In addition to the military bounties the Virginia legislature awarded up to 400 acres to those who had already "really and bona fide settled themselves (built a cabin) ... upon any waste or unappropriated lands." 

(Source: The Green River of Kentucky, by Helen Bartter Crocker, Univ. of KY Press, 1976)

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Some Early Residents

One of the early settlers in the area of Warren County, Kentucky now known as the Penns Chapel, Sand Hill, and Anna communities was Jonathan Wilson. He was born in 1785 in Montgomery County, Virginia. His family was likely part of a group of Scotch-Irish settlers who came to Virginia from Ireland.

 

Between 1807 and 1809 Jonathan Wilson moved to Warren County, Kentucky. He moved first to the Rays Branch area. He bought and sold land many times in his lifetime including land along Indian Creek and the Little Beaver Dam Creek. The latter is in the neighborhood of what is now the Penns Chapel community and  Dripping Springs Farm. Jonathan married four times and had 17 children.

(Source: Descendants of Jonathan Wilson of Warren County Kentucky and the allied families of Sturgeon, Cowles, Spinks, Flohri/Flora,Baugh, Graville by Wm. Michael Wilson and Mitchell Wilson.)

 

Many of Jonathan's descendants still live in the Penn's Chapel area. One of his sons, Martin Wilson, married Rhoda Sturgeon, and they donated part of their farm for the Penns Chapel Church in 1897. One of Martin and Rhoda's children Granville Washington Wilson married Daisy Dean Cowles. Daisy's father was Leander Cowles who lived on the farm that is now Dripping Springs Farm.

 

The photo shows the Lee Cowles family in front of the house that stood just a few feet from the farmhouse that still stands on Dripping Springs Farm. Elihue Spinks lived with this family from at least age 8 until he was a young man. Lee Cowles is seated on the right and that may be Daisy Dean standing on the left. It is unknown who is in the house looking out the window. Maybe our Elihue? 

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Churches and Cemeteries

Penns Chapel Church of Christ 

Date of construction, About 1897

As noted above, the land for this church was donated by Martin and Rhoda Wilson from a portion of their farm. In the deed they mention an old existing church to be torn down and a new one erected. The old church mentioned in the deed may have been John Sturgeon's, a Methodist minister and the father of Rhoda Wilson.   

Source:  http://home.insightbb.com/~bglandmark/churchtxt3.html

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The earliest dates on the Penns Chapel cemetery stones are 1897 (Miller) 1898 (Cannon), 1899 (Wilson). So burials must have started right after the church was founded. Other family names in the cemetery include Spinks, Cowles, Lucas, Mayhugh, Sturgeon, Stiles, Lewis, Bratcher, Jones, Watt, Manco, Denham, Minton, Beck, Martin, Grimes, Simmons, Bledsoe, Oakes, Montgomery, Cherry and more. Many of these are names of early settlers in the area are found in census, birth, death and marriage records. 

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Another cemetery that is close to Penns Chapel is the Cranville Chapel Cemetery (sometimes called Crammel or Crandall). This site is  on a high hill near the intersection of Penns Chapel Rd (Hwy 1320) and Wayne Watt Road. The chapel itself is long gone, but is remembered by many people who recall stories of the cemetery on the hill being haunted. The story goes that those who traveled the old road that ran near the cemetery would hear organ music playing at night many years after the church was gone. Many of the stones are unreadable now, but the burial dates appear to range from 1873 - 1949. (Names on the stones include Lewis, French, Hunt, Hall, Cannon, and many Wilsons.) This cemetery is only accessible  foot and much of the site is overgrown with trees and vines. The stone pictured at right reads "MEARY ELISABETH FRENCH, THE WIFE OF  L. A. FRENCH. WAS BORN IN1859 DEC. DEC 14 1902."

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Lafayette America "Lafe" French was Ernie Cordelia's grandfather. His first wife,  Rebecca Sarah Skaggs's had a daughter named Mary Palvina French  who was Ernie Cordelia's mother. Meary/Mary Elisabeth was Lafe French's second wife.

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Perhaps the oldest cemetery in the area is the Watt/Flora cemetery in the nearby community of Sand Hill. This is believed to be the location of Jonathan Wilson's grave. He was the first Wilson in the area and died in 1850.   The stone marked J.W. has no date but is close to his son's stone (Woodford Wilson). The earliest marked stone shows a death date of 1854 (Watt). Names in this cemetery include many who were known to live in the Penns Chapel area as well: Alford, Bratcher, Beck, Flora, Grimes, Hall, Hopper, Miller, Runner, Simmons, Spinks, and Watt among others.

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Penns Chapel Store and a Mill

There was once a store close to the church at Penns Chapel. In the 1960s Lisa remembers visiting this store many times. The owners were Elbert Porter "Cooch" Jones and his wife Bessie Jones. "My mother, Cleo Spinks Hite, would send me to the store with a list, and Cooch or Bessie would go around the small store (essentially one room) and find the items for me. I also spent time in front of the window to the left of the front door where there was a fascinating candy shelf with lots of old fashioned kinds of candies that I don't think were sold in more modern grocery stores of the time. There was a sign over the store's front door that said something like "E.P. Jones Store." There was a gas pump outside the store. Cooch also drove the school bus for the kids in the area for awhile."

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Cleo and her sister Virginia Spinks Mahan Grimes remembered that their great grandfather Lafayette A. "Lafe" French owned that store at one time, and he also a mill. The mill was located elsewhere - possibly Little Beaver Dam Creek Road. They remembered their brother Lloyd Spinks riding a mule to take a bag of corn to the mill to be ground into meal.  On one trip there was a hole in the sack, so the meal spilled out along the way back home, much to the family's disappointment.

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Marie Beck Wilson remembered her brothers made up a children's rhyme something like this: 

"Eddie Beck did a peck,

Willie Beck found it.

Jimmy Beck took it to the mill 

and Lafe French ground it."

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There is a photo of the Penn's Chapel store in earlier years (to be added). The scene was described as a political rally. The building that was the store is now a residence.

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Penns Chapel School

There was a one-room school house located at what is now the address of 2296 Penns Chapel Road. Lloyd, Cleo and Virginia all attended the school. We would love to find a photo of that school!

(Source: Oral histories, memories and family stories collected by Lisa Hite)

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grave of Meary/Mary Elizabeth Hunt French in Cranville Chapel cemetery near intersection of Penns Chapel Rd (Hwy1320) and Wayne Watt Rd.
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